Il presepe di San Donato, un dipinto di Johannes Vermeer

Dario Melissano 27 December 2022

In San Donato, a small town a few kilometers from Lecce, a delightful living nativity scene takes place every year. It is an itinerary that starts from the streets of the historic center and slowly climbs up the slight hill that guards the oldest part of the village.

The entrance to the nativity scene is guarded by a Roman centurion on horseback. One cannot expect total fidelity to the role, but it is truly singular to observe a Roman soldier equipped with a cell phone. Caught!

Once past the soldiers, you enter the actual circuit of the nativity scene. An ancient district with ruined houses and dwellings, cobbled streets and prickly pear trees everywhere.

You also come across a small lake, with fishermen from Lake Tiberias, who strangely fish for wishes and brighten up the evening in a whirlwind of joy and vivacity.

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Among the various shops and huts you can taste homemade cheese, or the traditional pittule, fried on the spot, or even the typical Apulian bread, the puccia.

Near the exit, in the final part of the route, a craftsman crouched among vegetables and fruit, recalls a character from a painting by Arcimboldo.

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The conclusion, as with every nativity scene, is the representation of the Nativity. In San Donato, tradition assigns the role of baby Jesus to the last born of the current year. The parents of the child become Mary and Saint Joseph, the older children transform into lively little angels.

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The nativity scene can be visited on December 25th and 26th, and on January 1st and 6th, from 4:30 pm to 8:30 pm. Admission is free of charge by the volunteers of the Amici del Presepe Association.

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The Nativity Scene of San Donato, a painting by Johannes Vermeer

Written by Dario Melissano

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The Nativity Scene of San Donato, a painting by Johannes Vermeer

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